Hilo Town
The Big Island's Forgotten City

Why is Hilo a "Forgotten City"? You might think it would be a bustling, booming place. It's the county seat of Hawaii County, the largest city in the county, and the closest city to the Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. But the truth is, it is a laid-back, quaint town, with a lot of history and not many tourists.

Hilo was a thriving city in the early 1900's, when the sugar crop was King. What happened? Economically, King Sugar is no longer a big commercial crop for Hawaii. Plus, on April 1, 1946 and again on May 19, 1960, Hilo was hit by a tsunami. A total of over 200 residents were killed and 1,300 homes were destroyed by these monster waves. But it wasn't really any of this that changed Hilo from a thriving city to a quaint, laid-back town, although they certainly didn't help.

In 1965, millionaire Laurance Rockefeller opened his Mauna Kea resort on the dry, sunny Kona side of the island. This luxurious resort quickly gained the attention - and the money - of tourists visiting the Big Island. And the biggest reason why Mauna Kea and all the big resorts since have been built on the lava fields of the west side of the island? It's dry, while eat side receives an average of 125 to 130 inches of rain each year! So it's climate that really has kept Hilo from developing into a major resort area like you'll find on the west side of the Big Island.

But all of this rain has a good side. Hilo and the surrounding area are green and fertile. Banyan trees are all along the waterfront. The Queen Liliuokalani Gardens, a traditional Japanese-style garden, is located next to Coconut Island off of Banyan Drive. On the edge of Hilo is the 80 foot Rainbow Falls. North out of Hilo is Akaka Falls and the Hawaii Tropical Botanical Gardens. None of these beautiful sights would exist without the rain.

In spite of the rain, Hilo is worth a visit. The waterfalls and gardens alone make the drive from Kailua-Kona worthwhile. But Downtown Hilo also deserves a look-see. Here you'll see tourist shops mixed in with those that cater to locals, as well as local restaurants. You'll often find festivals, fairs and open-air markets. The Hilo Farmers Market is open every Wednesday and Saturday, with a hugh variety fresh produce, crafts and snacks and souvenirs.

To really get the feel of this side of the Big Island, you need to spend at least one night. There are hotels in Hilo, but the best places to stay are usually the bed and breakfasts and small inns. You need time to see the gardens and waterfall and Downtown. There is also the Hilo Cultural Center and the Lyman Museum. Wailoa Center is one of Hilo's best places for art and culture. As for beaches, Coconut Island Park is great for swimming and relaxation. Richardson Ocean Park is good for snorkeling, and you stand a good chance of seeing a dolphin. Pana'ewa Rainforest Zoo is the only zoo in the United States located in a tropical rainforest.

And of course, there is Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, about 40 minutes drive from Hilo. The park is home to Mauna Loa, the largest volcano on Earth and among the most active. You need a minimum of three hours to see the park. This is one of the reasons you need to spend a night on this side of the island - it's a long drive back to the resorts of the west side. Spending the night at the Volcano House, the 42-room lodge is a unique experience. It is the only lodging inside the park.

So if you would like to get away from the tourist side of the Big Island and explore a slice of old Hawaii, make the trip to Hilo Town. And stay a couple of days. It's worth it.